![]() ![]() The push is telling you that the car is not wanting to turn. Try to make the transition as smooth as possible. Start the corner wider and enter more smoothly. One that either delays the offending body roll (suspension geometry problem) or otherwise modifies the weight transfer in your favor.ħ. This will reduce the overturning moment and should reduce the right rear side bite. This is more due to aerodynamics in NASCAR and multiple rear suspension links on dirt.ĥ. They use stiffer rear springs and soften up the front. Newer style setups revolve around running off the rear tires, especially the right rear on asphalt and the left rear on dirt. The idea is that if the right front and left rear carry the car, the other two wheels can be used for tuning the suspension or handling of the car.(old style setup) Did I say old, I meant classical.Ĥ. That includes the driver, engine and fuel cell. The wedge line runs from the right front contact patch to the left rear contact patch. Another thing that can be done is to try to keep big items as close to the wedge line as possible. A huge front bumper might create a push for example.ģ. This reduces the polar moment of inertia. Keep as much weight as close to the center of mass as possible. Again, this might cure the push, but also might reduce the overall performance of the car.Ģ. That is because the easiest way to do that is to add weight to the rear. Notice I didn't say change the weight distribution. Reduce the weight on the end that is causing the problem. With that said, here are some basic ideas to think about :ġ. Only with that move, you are reducing something and might be giving away some performance. In other words, you might be able to reduce the side bite of the rear suspension in the middle of the turn and accomlish the same thing. Increasing the front bite is better than reducing the rear bite, assuming the front bite isn't already maxed out. The first, and better way in my opinion is to attempt to fix the end with the problem first. There are always two ways to fix a problem. Other things thatcause mid corner push would be: not enough rear stagger, too much cross weight, rear roll center too low, rear end tracking meaning that the rear housing is shifted to the left compared to the front track width. If the car is tight at entry, use more positive left front caster. The amount of left front positive caster will dictate how much the chassis will loosen up on corner entry and mid corner. It takes cross weight out of the car as it is turned to the left. This jacks weight into the left front and right rear and that loosens up the car. More positive caster combined with your steering axis inclination causes the left front corner to rise and the right front corner to drop as it is steered to the left. I found out by using power steering that I did not tire as quickly and that my times fell off less on long runs. Large positive caster angles will increase your steering effort, so you better be using power steering. Increased positive caster will enhance front steering stability. More split will help it on the intial turn in. You really need to add more left front positive caster instead of more split. Caster split mostly helps the car on intial turn in, but will aid a little mid turn too. ![]()
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